Bodegas & Viñedos Ponce "Clos Lojen" Bobal 2023

This is such a lovely and unique Spanish red. Bobal is traditionally used in bulk as a blending grape, but Juan Antonio Ponce takes it very seriously as a single varietal. He is one of Spain's leading lights amongst a new, younger set of vignerons who pair their vineyard knowledge with serious discipline and curiosity in the cellar, often borrowing techniques from the north of the border, where their influences are more likely to reside in the Loire, Beaujolais and Burgundy than in Bordeaux. He enrolled in Viticulture and Oenology school at age 14 and began his own winery at age 23. He is also a student of Jean Foillard from the Gang of Four.

The 2022 Clos Lojen was produced with 100% Bobal from old head-pruned and dry-farmed vines on limestone, clay and rocky soils that fermented with full clusters in 4,500-liter oak vats and matured in a combination of 4,500-, 10,000- and 15,000-liter oak vats for six months. It's quite fruit-driven and has a moderate 12.5% alcohol and good freshness. Raspberries and blackberries balanced with savory notes. Deep ruby color, some purple. Pronounced nose with deep fruit up front, dark red berries and cherries, cinnamon spice, sweeter violet pastilles and a present core of minerality. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, some acidity, intense but fresh flavors, long, fresh, slightly tannic finish. Lots of perfume resonating on the palate. A delicious bargain. 

This project started in 2005 with just 11 barrels and a loan, after winemaker Juan Antonio Ponce, at 23, returned home from working at Cia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez. The family’s wine growing tradition dates back to Juan Antonio’s great-grandfather. Although his father never made wine, he used to sell the grapes to the local cooperative. These days Manchuela is probably the most interesting appellation in central Spain, led by Ponce.