Bodegas Albamar Rias Baixas Albariño 2023

Albamar Albariño 2024 is akin to taking a dip along the Galician coast: refreshing, effervescent, and with that salinity that leaves you smiling. Aromas of wet stone and petrichor are underpinned by freshly cut lemon, green apple and a hint of anise that invigorates. The palate is equally fresh and bright, with ripe meyer lemon balanced by a hedonistic touch of juicy pineapple, both of which give way to a characteristically salty, tangy, chalky finish. Good ripeness and very good balance. A delightful, artisanal wine from a family who has been farming vines for generations.

Hand-harvested from a wide range of parcels, mostly on granite, in and around Castrelo (Cambados) in the Salnés Valley. The vineyards, which are over 25 years old, are situated in O Salnés and cultivate the vines using a trellis system. The grapes are fermented whole-cluster with indigenous yeasts, remain unfined, and do not undergo malolactic fermentation. This cuvée sits on its lees for five months in steel vats. The lees aging lends a creamy roundness that balances perfectly the salt-spray acidity indicative of the region and the grape.

Founded around 25 years ago, the name Albamar combines the name of the winemaking family—Alba—with ‘mar’: the sea that has such an important influence on the climate and soil of the vineyards they farm. When Luis Alba planted vines a generation ago, near the mouth of the Río Umia, it was to produce wines for local consumption. Luis’s son Xurxo took over the operation in 2006 and has succeeded in gaining the attention of the world for his Galician albariños. Xurxo has moved the winery toward sustainable growing and winemaking practices, although he freely admits that the proximity to the Atlantic—although essential in contributing to the unique expression of the wines—poses unique pressures from fungal disease.