Mari Vineyards "Bestiary Ramato" Pinot Grigio 2020

A deep, rusty-orange, copper color, this has a savory aroma of cranberry, cherry, spicy frankincense and dried rose. The palate is surprisingly light in concentration with flavors of lemon peels, yellow cherry, white tea and dried rose. Lightly tannic, ample acidity carries the skin contact well, keeping this surprisingly light on its feet. There is a hint of spice on the finish.

The fourth vintage of Bestiary Ramato, this unique wine captures your attention with tea-like notes and bright fruit flavor. Pinot Grigio, being a mutation of Pinot Noir, features hints of clove—a trait often overwhelmed by the red grape’s fruit. The Ambra, a blend of Malvasia Bianca, Tocai Friulano, and Sauvignon Blanc, brings pomegranate and tropical fruit flavor that meld perfectly with the Pinot Grigio. The final blend is reminiscent of a fruity steeped tea with delicate tannins. While quite drinkable now, the Ramato’s tannins will help it age similarly to a red wine. Expect to enjoy now through 2029.

While Ramato wines have become popular in recent years, notably reviving in the Friuli region of Italy, they actually represent ancient Georgian winemaking techniques that persisted until considered rustic against advancing technology. The term “orange wine” can be misleading, and many variations wax philosophical but lack joy. Not trying to make an art film that you have to talk yourself into liking, Winemaker Sean O’Keefe aimed to preserve and balance the joy of the fruit against a pleasing astringency.