Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2021

Leads with warm ganache and fig bread notes, followed quickly by raspberry reduction accents that take some time to unwind. The mid-palate reveals rich notes of currants, cherry, milk chocolate and vanilla. Guided by finely crushed mineral accents and supple tannins, this reveals pretty high-toned floral notes and leafy tobacco. Showcases plum pâte de fruit, sanguine and black licorice notes, with a flicker of Turkish coffee underscoring the finish and giving this a decidedly dark profile in the end.

A superb blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse and Muscardin, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is made from old vines aged 50 to 100 years, located in and around Le Crau. The Grenache is aged in concrete for 12 months while the remainder is aged in demi-muid. Vaccarèse, with lovely dark color and floral and herbal aromatics, is one of the rarest grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, at just over 10 acres planted (only 0.15% of the appellation's surface). There is little planted elsewhere in the world. 900 cases made.

Clos Saint Jean is a 41 hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the great-great-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.

The plateau where Le Crau sits is perhaps the most iconic of the many terroirs of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, iron-rich red clays topped with galets. While about 60% of their vineyards are located here, specifically in the lieu-dits of Côteau de Saint Jean and Cabane de Saint-Jean, another 40% are located in alluvial clay and sandy soils adjacent to the plateau. They also own a small parcel of Mourvedre in the lieu-dit of Bois-Dauphin near Château Rayas planted on sandy, limestone-rich soils.

The farming at Clos Saint Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate which obviates the need for chemical inputs. Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones to prevent pests from taking up Le Crau with Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the horizon.