Domaine Labranche Laffont Madiran Vieilles Vignes 2018

Very dark, deep and dense. This wine underlines the notion that Tannat is a study in density and the exact opposite of modern “spoofilated” (commercial) wines. Aromas of black fruit, licorice, leather, dried mint, smoked wood and overripe red fruits. The palate adds olive tapenade, dark chocolate and cola, but is otherwise consistent with the aromas. Texturally big and viscous, but the herbal and spicy flavors bring balance. Given several hours of aeration, this Tannat blossoms.

100% Tannat from several parcels that total 7.5 acres. One parcel of two acres has vines 150 years old, the others support vines at least 50 years old. The soil is clay-limestone, farming is certified organic. The grapes are hand harvested, de-stemmed and aged one year in Bordeaux barrels, roughly 20% of which are new each year. Unfiltered and light fining.

Christine Dupuy took over her family’s wine estate in 1992 when her father passed unexpectedly. She was 23 at the time, and the estate had been in the family since the French Revolution. She had just finished her degree in enology but had little practical experience, so she went to study at neighboring Château d’Aydie, Domaine Capmartin, and Domaine La Chapelle Lenclos, all of which were among the most prestigious domains in the appellation at the time.

Dupuy received certification for organic farming in 2014. She is a member of a group of organic growers in the Southwest known as A BISTO DE NAS, and she is increasingly interested in biodynamic methods and in being as non-interventionist as possible.